Wednesday, October 30, 2024

Goodbye Kyoto


Our last full day here and we coincidentally found a brew pub.  This must mean we’re heading home.  Yesterday we went to Nara, ancient center of rulers in Japan & home to one of the largest Buddhas in the world.  There are also hundreds of tame deer mingling with visitors, bowing for nibbles.  We hid behind a tree to eat our bento lunch!  





With a little time before we leave, we went to the Samurai museum.  Fun presentation, with the option of dressing up as either a ninja or samurai to practice one’s sword or star throwing skills.  Alas, we had a train to catch.


As we await the Haruka express to the airport, I feel we miss Kyoto already.  Sayonara 

Monday, October 28, 2024

Kumano Kodo : moving on



 We’ve completed our trek, visiting the 3 shrines that are central to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.  Although not for the faint of heart, I felt reassured by the parts we were able to do.

Our last 2 nights in the Kumano area were spent at onsen or ryoko hotels, and the natural hot springs are at about 90 C.  The cold water added makes soaking lovely.  







The day after arriving back in Kyoto, we caught up with laundry 🧺 and arranged for rail passes for this week.  Only 3 full days left in Japan and so much to see & learn.

We went to Hiroshima by train - visited the museum devoted to the history of the horrors that the atomic bomb unleashed in 1945.  The peace flame will burn until there are no nuclear weapons on the planet.  The remnants of a building near the epicenter is the atomic bomb dome.  Such a sobering reminder that these weapons must never be used.





Saturday, October 26, 2024

Kumano Kodo: on the trail again

 We made it to Chikatsuyu via train, then local bus through mountain roads;  and found iced coffees.  Our hosts that evening were a couple who had done 10 Camino walks in Spain.  We shared the accommodation with a family from Singapore & spent the evening eating amazing food and fascinating conversation.  


We hiked the final stretch to Hongu taisha; lovely weather, quiet woods & rock-hopping up and down.  Great walk!









The day ended at a roykan, which means folk wander in robes & slippers to steaming outdoor baths followed by amazing food.      Ah, Japan!

Thursday, October 24, 2024

Kumano Kodo: beginning

 We took trains south out of Kyoto to arrive at Shimizu-Ura station on the west coast of the Kii peninsula.  From there we walked up & down the mountain behind the town, and found that what was described as a 2 hour walk turned into a 4 hour strenuous hike.  







These small trail shrines house small guardians along the way.  They pre-date the introduction of Buddhist traditions in this area.  We were met by a sign at the Fujishiro shrine, an auspicious site for the Kumano Kodo, that read “welcome Linda Jacobsen”.  I was near exhaustion and ready to take a taxi, but found hope in the welcoming temple staff who gave us a brief tour, complete with a ceremony to wish us well on our journey.  So humbling & adds meaning to our journey here.

We spent the night outside of Yuasa in the midst of orange groves, eating food prepared by our host.  



Day 2:  We adapted our plans to don our rain ponchos and ended up touring a black bamboo workshop, the Dojo-jo temple (birthplace of Kabuki), and the Kokokuji temple with a tour by one the monks.  We were soaked & amazed.  Photos below show a glimpse of the day ….
















Sunday, October 20, 2024

Nijo castle & cooking class

 

There are so many world heritage sites within walking distance that it’s hard to decide where to go!  We decided on the Nijo-Jo castle where 15 generations of Shoguns went occasionally to relax & conduct intrigue.  




Later that afternoon we rode subways to find the location of our cooking class in the outskirts of Kyoto.  It’s hard to believe how safe this city is.  We met a goodwill ambassador in our final subway station who believed we were going to get lost, so he walked with us, shaking his head that we would come from so far to cook in his community!




Today we confirm the way to the trails in the morning.  We go by trains down to the Kii peninsula and begin walking.  Just like the Camino, we have credentials to stamp along our way.  Sayonara